In an area ideal for bikers and nature-lovers, Bornholm’s red-roofed cliffside villas may seem Mediterranean, but the flowers and half-timbered houses are undeniably Danish. The unique round churches (half the round churches in Denmark are in Bornholm) were both places of worship and fortresses for waiting out pirate attacks. The sandiest and longest beaches are at Dueodde, on the island’s southern tip. For more info, check out www.bomholm.info.
IT TRANSPORTATION. Trains from Copenhagen to Ystad, Sweden are timed to meet the ferry from Ystad to Ronne, Bornholm’s capital. (Train 70 13 14 15; IMhr. 5-6 per day; ferry l’ihr.; trip 205kr, under-26 180kr.) A cheaper option is the combo busferry route (bus 56 95 18 66; 1 !4hr. 4-6 per day; ferry 1 ‘Ahr.; trip 195145kr.) Overnight ferries from Copenhagen to Ronne leave at 11:30pm and arrive in R0nne at 6:30am (224kr, add 76kr for a dorm-style bed). Born-holmstrafikken (Ronne56 95 18 66; www.bomholm-ferries.dk) offers the combo trainferry and busferry routes. Scandlines operates ferries from Fahrhafen Sassnitz in Germany. (+49 383 926 44 20. 3!hr. 1-2 per day, 90-130kr.) Bornholm has an efficient local BAT bus service. (56 95 21 21. 36-45kr, 24hr. pass llOkr.) Bus #7 makes a circuit of the entire island; it starts at Ronne find end at Hammershus, stopping at Bornholm’s towns and attractions along the way. There are numerous well-marked cycling paths between all the major towns; pick up a guide at the tourist office in Ronne (40kr). The bike ride from Ronne to Sandvig is about 28km.
R0NNE. Tiny but charming Ronne (pop. 14,000), on the southwest coast, is Bornholm’s principal port of entry. The town serves mainly as an outpost for biking trips through the surrounding fields, forests, and beaches. Rent a bike from Bornholms Cykeludlejning, next door to the tourist office at Ndr. Kystvej 5. (56 95 13 59. Reserve ahead in July. 60kr per day. Open May-Sept. daily 7am-4pm and 8:30-9pm.) The tourist office, Ndr. Kystvej 3, books private rooms (140-195kr) for free. (56 95 95 00. Open June-Aug. M-Sa 9am-5pm, Su 10am-3pm; Aug.-Feb. M-F 9am-4pm; Mar.-May M-F 9am-4pm, Su 10am-4pm.) The HI Youth Hostel , Arsenalvej 12, is in a wooded area near the coastline. From the ferry, walk 3min. down Snellemark to the red BAT terminal and take bus #23 or 24. (a 56 95 13 40. Breakfast 45kr. Kitchen available. Sheets 55kr. Reception daily 8am-noon and 4-5pm. Open mid-June to mid-Aug. Dorms lOOkr. Nonmembers add 30kr.) Gallekken Camping O, Strandvejen 4, is near the city center and the beach. ( 56 95 23 20. Bikes 55kr per day. Reception 7:30am-noon and 2-9pm. Open mid-May to Aug. 58kr per person.) Get groceries at Kvickly, opposite the tourist office. (Open mid-June to late Aug. daily 9am-8pm; Sept. to early June M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 8am-5pm, Su 10am-4pm.)
SANDVIG AND ALLINGE. On the tip of the spectacular northern coast, the white-sand and rock beaches in these two small towns attract bikers and bathers. A few kilometers from central Allinge is Hammershus, northern Europe’s largest castle ruin. Take bus #1, 2, or 7. Set in a field of waving grass, the whitewashed Osterlars Rundkirke is the largest of the island’s four uniquely fortified round churches. Take bus #3 or 9 to 0sterlars Kirke. Many pleasant trails originate in Sandvig; the rocky area around Hammeren, northeast of the town, is a 2hr. walk that can only be covered on foot. The Nordbornholms Turistbureau, Kirkeg. 4, in Allinge, finds rooms. ( 56 48 00 01. Open mid-June to mid-Aug. M-F 10am-5pm, Sa 10am-3pm; mid-Aug. to mid-June 10am-5pm, Sa lOam-noon.) Rent bikes at the Sandvig Cykeludlejning, Strandvejen 121. (56 48 00 60. 55kr per day. Open June-Aug. M-F 9am-4pm, Sa 9am-2pm, Su lOam-lpm.) Many local families rent rooms; look for signs on Strandvejen between Sandvig and Allinge. Just outside Sandvig is the lakeside Sandvig Van-drerhjem (HI) , Hammershusvej 94. (56 48 03 62. Breakfast 45kr. Sheets 60kr. Reception daily 9-10am and 4-6pm. Open Apr.-Oct. Dorms lOOkr; singles 250kr; doubles 350kr.) Sandvig Familie Camping , Sandlinien 5, has sites on the sea. (56 48 04 47. Bikes 50kr per day, 200kr per week. Reception daily 8am-llpm. Open Apr.-Oct. 50kr per person, 15kr per tent.) Riccos , Strandg. 8, a pleasant cafe near the sea, offers free Internet access. (Open 7am-10pm.)
Situated between Zealand to the east and the Jutland Peninsula to the west, the island of Funen is Denmark’s garden. This remote breadbasket is no longer isolated from the rest of Denmark a bridge and tunnel now connect it to Zealand. Pick up maps (75kr) of the bike paths covering the island at Funen tourist offices.