Inexpensive accommodations are scarce in June, when some hostels close. The opening of student dorms to backpackers in July and August somewhat alleviates the crush. Visitors should join the free Club Innsbruck by registering at any Innsbruck accommodation. Membership gives discounts on skiing, bike tours, and the club’s hiking program.

Pension Paula, Weiherburgg. 15 (29 22 62). Take bus D to Schmelzerg. and head uphill. Escape the city rumble. Beautiful views across the valley. Breakfast included. Singles ‚27, with shower ‚33; doubles ‚4554; triples ‚6070; quads ‚80. Gasthof Innbrucke. Instr. 1 ( 28 19 34). From the Altstadt, cross the Innbrucke. The 575-year-old inn has a riverside and mountain view. Breakfast included. Singles ‚27, with shower ‚35; doubles ‚4560; quads ‚110.

Jugendherberge Innsbruck (HI), Reichenauer Str. 147 ( 34 61 79). From the train sta tion, take tram 3 to Sillpark and bus 0 to Jugendherberge. Bike rental ‚11 per day. Breakfast included. Reception daily 5-10pm. 6-bed dorms ‚12; 4-bed dorms ‚15; sin gles with shower ‚28; doubles with shower ‚41. Nonmembers add ‚3. 0 Hostel Fritz Prior-Schwedenhaus (HI), Rennweg 17b (58 58 14). From the station, take tram 4 to Handelsakademie, continue to the end and across Rennweg to the river. Spacious rooms with private bath. Sheets ‚3.10. Reception daily 7-9:30am and 5- 10:30pm. Check-in before 6pm. Lockout 9am-5pm. Open July-Aug. and Dec. 27-Jan. 5. Dorms ‚10; doubles ‚28; triples ‚42.

Camping Innsbruck Kranebitten, Kranebitter Allee 214 (28 41 80). Take bus 0 to Technik and then bus LK to Klammstr. Walk downhill to the right. Pleasant grounds in the shadow of a snow-capped mountain. Restaurant open 8-1 lam and 4pm-midnight. Showers included. If reception is closed, find a site and check in the next morning. ‚5 per person, ‚3 per tent, ‚3 per car. Bicycle ‚5 per day. Electricity ‚3.

The delicatessen on glamorous Maria-Theresien-Str. are good but overpriced. From the Altstadt, cross the Inn River to Innstr. in the university district, for eth nic restaurants and cheap pizzerias. There are M-Preis Supermarkets at Museumstr.

34 and across from the train station. (Open M-F 7:30am-6:30pm, Sa 7:30am-5pm.)

Theresianbrau, Maria-Theresien-Str. 51, is built around giant copper brewing kettles. Try the dark house lager (,5L stein ‚3.30) alongside traditional meals such as Kasespatzl (homemade noodles with cheese; ‚6.80). Fondue for 2 or more is available after 6pm. Open M-W 10:30am-lam, Th-Sa 10:30am-2am, Su 10:30am-midnight. MCV.

ES Salute Pizzeria, innrain 35, on the side of the street farthest from the river. A popular student hangout. Some of the best and least expensive pizza in town (‚3-8). Pasta ‚4.50-6.50. Salad ‚3-4.50. Open llam-midnight.

Noi Original Thaikiiche, Kaiserjagerstr. 1. Cooks up Thai soups (‚4-8.40) and spicy dishes from the wok (‚8-11). Open M-F ll:30am-3pm and 6-ilpm, Sa 6-llpm. Gasthof WeiSes Lamm, Mariahilfstr. 12, 2nd fl. Serves Austrian fare to a mostly local crowd. Open M-W and F-Su noon-2pm and 6-10pm. MCV.


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