Regensburg (pop. 127,000) is teeming with students and the places that feed, souse, and engage them in their idle hours. The city is reputed to have more cafes and bars per square meter than any other city in Europe. The Dom St. Peter dazzles with richly colored stained glass. Inside, the Domschatz (Cathedral Treasury) displays gold and jewels purchased by the bishops, as well as the preserved hand of Bishop Chrysostomus, who died in AD 407. (Open Apr.-Oct. daily 6:30am-6pm; Nov.-Mar. 6:30am-5pm. Free.) A few blocks away, the Rathaus served as capital of the Holy Roman Empire until 1803. Downriver from Regensburg, Walhalla is an imitation Parthenon honoring Ludwig I’s favorite Germans. Take the ferry or bus #5 from Albertspl. to Donaustauf Walhallastr. EHistorische Wurstkiiche. Thun-dorfer Str. an 850-year-old beer garden, is ideal for sipping brew (0.5L 2.60) while watching ships drift by on the Danube. Check bulletin boards around campus for student parties, which are usually free and open to all.
Trains to: Munich (lihr. every hr. 20); Nuremberg (l-l’ihr. 1-2 per hr. 14); and Passau (l-l!4hr. every hr. 17). The tourist office is in the Altes Rathaus. From the station, walk down Maximilianstr. turn left on Grasg. turn right at the end onto Obere Bachg. and follow it for 5 blocks. ( 507 44 10. Open Apr.-Oct. M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-4pm, Su 9:30am-4pm; Nov.-March M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-4pm, Su 9:30am-2:30pm.) To get to the Jugendherberge (HI) , Wohrdstr. 60, walk from the station to the end of Maximilianstr. turn right on
Plugg and then left at the Optik sign onto tiny Erhardig’.; at the end, take the steps down, walk left over the bridge, and veer right onto Wohrdstr. Or, take bus #3, 8, or 9 (1.50) from the station. (574 02. Breakfast included. Reception daily 3pm-midnight. Dorms 17.) Hinterhaus , Rote-Hahnen-Gasse 2, serves cheese and meat dishes. (Entrees 4-9. Open daily 6pm-lam.) There’s a supermarket in the basement of Galeria Kaufhof, on Neupfarrpl. (Open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 9am-4pm.) Postal Code: 93047.