GUIDE FOR VIENNA
AUSTRIAN GRAFFITI Scratched into the stones near the entrance of the Stephansdom is the abbreviation 05. It’s not a sign of hoodlums up to no good but rather a reminder of a different kind of subversive activity. During WWII, 05 was the secret symbol of Austria’s resistance movement against the Nazis. The capital letter 0 and the number 5,” for the fifth letter of the alphabet, form the first two letters of Oesterreich”- meaning Austria. Recently, the monogram has received new life. Every time alleged Nazi collaborator and ex-president of Austria Kurt Waldheim attends Mass, the symbol is high lighted in chalk. Throughout the city, 05 has also been appearing on buildings and flyers in protest of the anti-immigration policies of Jorg Haider and the Freedom Party.
HOHER MARKT AND STADTTEMPEL. Once both a market and an execution site, Hoher Markt was the heart of the Roman encampment, Vindobona. Roman ruins lie beneath the shopping arcade across from the fountain. (From Stephanspl. walk down Rotenturmstr. and turn left on Lictenstr. Open Su and Tu-Sa 9am-12:15pm and l-4:40pm. ‚1.80, students ‚0.70.) The biggest draw is the 1914 Jugendstil Ankeruhr (clock), whose 3m figures from Marcus Aurelius to Maria Theresia rotate past the Viennese coat of arms accompanied by the tunes of their times. (1 figure per hr. At noon all figures appear. Follow Judeng. from Hoher Markt to Ruprechtspl.) Hidden on Rupre- chtspl. at Seitenstetteng. 2, the Stadttempel is the only synagogue in Vienna to escape Nazi destruction during Kristcdlnaeht. (Bring passport Open M-Th. Free.)
AM HOF AND FREYUNG. Once a medieval jousting square, Am Hof now houses the Kirche am Hof (Church of the Nine Choirs of Angels) and Collalto Palace, where Mozart gave his first public performance. (From Stephanspl. walk down Graben until it ends, go right and continue on Bognerg.; Am Hof is on the right.) Just west of Am Hof is Freyung, the square with the Austriabrunnen (Austria Fountain) in the center. Freyung (sanctuary) took its name from the Schottenstift (Monastery of the Scots), where fugitives could claim asylum in medieval times. It was once used for public executions, but the annual Christkindl market held here blots out such unpleasant memories with baked goods and Christmas cheer.