Bellahej Camping, Hvidkildevej 66 (38 10 11 50), 5km from the city center. Take bus #2A from Kobenhavn H (dir.: Tingbjerg; 15min. every 5-10min.) to Primulavej. Kitchen, cafe, and market. Showers included. Reception 24hr. Open June-Aug. 59kr per person; rental tents lOOkr per person.


Among the Viking’s legacies is Copenhagen’s love-it-or-hate-it pickled herring. Around Kongens Nytorv, elegant cafes serve the truly Danish sm0rrebr0d (open-faced sandwich) for about 40kr. All-you-can-eat buffets (29-70kr) are popular, especially on Stroget. Fakta and Netto supermarkets are budget fantasies; there are several in the Norreport area (S-train: Norreport) and around the city. (Most open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 10am-4pm.) Open-air markets provide fresh fruits and veggies; try the one at Israels Plads near Norreport Station. (Open M-Th 9am-5:30pm, F 9am-6:30pm, Sa 9am-3pm.) Fruit stalls line Str0get and the side streets to the north.

Nyhavns Faergekro, Nyhavn 5. Upscale fisherman’s cottage atmosphere along the canal. Lunch on 10 styles of all-you-can-eat herring (89kr) or pick just one style (45kr). Dinner from 150kr. Open daily 9:30am-ll:30pm.

Cafe Norden, 0sterg. 61, on Straget and Nicolaj PI. in sight of the fountain. A chic cafe in the heart of Straget. Great for people-watching. Sandwiches 69-89kr. Salads 92-95kr. Brunch llOkr. Kitchen open Su-Th until 9pm, F until 10pm. Open M-Sa gam-mid-night. Su lOam-midnight.

RizRaz, Kompagnistr. 20 and Store Kannikestr. 19. Extensive vegetarian and mediterranean buffet. Lunch buffet 59kr. Dinner 69kr. Open daily ll:30am-midnight.

Kafe Kys, Lasderstr. 7, on a quiet street running south of and parallel to Straget. Plenty of vegetarian options, tasty sandwiches, and salads (48-75kr). Kitchen closes daily at 10:30pm. Open M-Th llam-lam, F-Sa llam-2am, Su 1 lam-midnight.

Shehnai, Vimmelskaftet 39. An Indian restaurant that serves a tasty all-you-can-eat pizza and salad buffet (29kr), in addition to traditional dishes. Tandoori chicken 20kr. Indian buffet 49kr. Open llam-llpm.

Den Grenne Kaelder, Pilestr. 48. Popular vegetarian and vegan dining in a casual atmosphere. Sandwiches 40kr. Lunch 65kr. Dinner 85kr. Open M-Sa llam-lOpm.

Kate’s Joint, Blagardsg. 12. Tasty pan-Asian cuisine in trendy Narrebro. Entrees 88kr. Open daily 6-10pm.

Cafe Europa, Amagertorv 1, on Nicolaj PI. If Norden is the place to see, then trendy Cafe Europa is the place to be seen. Sandwiches 79-99kr. Gourmet salads 99-119kr. Beer 50kr. Great coffee. Open M-F 9am-midnight, Sa 9am-12:30am, Su 10am-8pm.


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