Copenhagen Guide for Tourist
DAYTRIPS FROM COPENHAGEN
Stunning castles and white sand beaches hide in Northern and Central Zealand. Trains offer easy access to many attractive sights within an hour of Copenhagen.
HUMLEBEK AND RUNGSTED. Humlebsek distinguishes itself with the spectacular iiLouisiana Museum of Modern Art, 13 Gl. Strandvej, named for the three wives (all named Louisa) of the estate’s original owner. Featuring works by Calder, Lichtenstein, Picasso, and Warhol, Louisiana is an engulfing experience; the building and its sculpture-studded grounds overlooking the sea are themselves worth the trip. Follow signs 1.5km north from the Humlebaek station, or take bus #388 (dir.: Helsing0r; every 20min. 15kr) to Louisiana. ( 49 19 07 19. Open M-Tu and Th-Su 10am-5pm, W 10am-10pm. 72kr, students 65kr.) The quiet harbor town of Rungsted is where Karen Blixen (pseudonym Isak Dinesen) wrote Out of Africa. The Karen Blixen Museum, Rungsted Strandvej 111, details her life. Follow the street leading out of the train station and turn right on Rungstedsvej, then right again on Rungsted Strandvej; or, take bus #388 and tell the driver your destination. (45 57 10 57. Open May-Sept. Su and Tu-Sa 10am-5pm; Oct.-Apr. W-F 14pm, Sa-Su llam-4pm. 35kr. Audioguide 25kr.) Both Humlebaek (45min. every 20min. 53kr or 4 clips) and Rungsted (30min. every 20min. 53kr or 4 clips) are on the Copenhagen-Hels-ing0r rail line. The tourist office kiosk is on the comer by the museum.
HILLER0D. Hillerad is home of the moated EiFrederiksborg Slot; with its exquisite Baroque gardens, brick ramparts, and dazzling Great Hall, it is the most impressive of Northern Zealand’s castles. To get there from the station, cross the street onto Vibekeg. and follow the signs; at the main plaza, walk to the pond and follow it to reach the castle. (48 26 04 39. Castle open Apr.-Oct. daily 10am-5pm; Nov.-Mar. llam-3pm. 60kr, students 50kr. Gardens open May-Aug. daily 10am-9pm; Sept. and Apr. 10am-7pm; Oct. and Mar. 10am-5pm; Nov.-Feb. 10am-4pm. Free.) Hillerod is at the end of S-train lines A and E (40min. every 15min. 53kr or 4 clips).
CHARLOTTENLUND AND KLAMPENBORG. Charlottenlund and Klampenborg, on the coastal line, feature topless beaches. To get to the beach from the Charlottenlund station, follow the signs for the “Danmark Akvarium,” which is next to the beach. The Klampenborg beach is somewhat bigger. Less refined than Tivoli, Bakken, the world’s oldest amusement park, delivers more thrills. From the Klampenborg train station, turn left, cross the overpass, and head through the park. (39 63 73 00; www.bakken.dk. Open late March to late Aug. Hours vary; consult the website. Free admission. Rides 10-35kr each; unlimited rides 199kr.) Bakken borders the Jaegersborg Deer Park, the royal family’s former hunting grounds. It is still home to wooded paths, the Eremitage summer chateau, and over 2000 deer. Charlottenlund (18min. every 20min. 23kr or 3 clips) and Klampenborg (22min. every 20min. 30kr or 4 clips) are on S-train lines C and F+.
HELSING0R AND HORNBEK. Helsing0r, 5km from the coast of Sweden, was formerly a strategic Danish stronghold. The fortified 15th-century Kronborg Slot was captured and ransacked by the Swedes in 1658, only to be returned two years later. Also known as Elsinore, the castle is the setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet (although neither the historical “Amled” nor the Bard ever came to visit). A statue of Viking chief Holger Danske sleeps in the castle’s spooky casemates; according to legend, he will awake to face any threat to Denmark’s safety. The castle also houses the Danish Maritime Museum, which contains a sea biscuit from 1852. From the train station, turn right and follow the signs along the waterfront. (49 21 30 78; www.kronborg.dk. Open May-Sept. daily 10:30am-5pm; Apr. and Oct. Su and Tu-Sa llam-4pm; Nov.-Mar. Su and Tu-Sa llam-3pm. Castle and casemates 40kr. Maritime Museum 30kr. Combination ticket 60kr. Guided 45min. tour of castle daily 2pm. Free.) Helsing0r is at the end of the northern train line (55min. every 20min. 53kr or 4 clips). The tourist office, Havnepl. 3, is in the Kulturhuset, the large brick building across from the station. (49 21 13 33. Open mid-June to Aug. M-Th 9am-5pm, F 9am-6pm, Sa 10am-3pm; Sept. to mid-June M-F 9am-4pm, Sa lOam-lpm.) To reach the gorgeous beachfront Helsingor Vandrerhjem Hostel (HI) 0, Ndr. Strandvej 24, take bus #340 (8min. every hr.). Or, take the train toward Hornbask, get off at
Hojstrup, and follow the path across the park; it’s on the other side of the street. ( 49 21 16 40; www.helsingorhostel.dk. Breakfast 45kr. Sheets 40kr. Reception daily 8am-noon and 3-9pm. Curfew 11pm. Open Feb.-Nov. Dorms llOkr; doubles 300kr; triples 400kr. Nonmembers add 30kr.)
Hornbcek, a small, untouristed fishing town near Helsing0r, offers beautiful beaches. The town hosts a wild harbor festival on the fourth weekend in July. Bus #340 runs from Helsingor to Hombaek (25min. every l-2hr. 23kr). The tourist office, Vestre Stejlebakke 2A, in the public library, has a listing of local B&Bs. Turn right from the station onto Havnevej, left onto Ndr. Strandvej, then right through the alley just before the Danske bank, ( 49 70 47 47; www.hombaek.dk. Open M-Tu and Th 2-7pm, W and F 10am-5pm, Sa 10am-2pm.)
The small harbor town of Ishoj, just south of Copenhagen, is home to the Arken Museum of Modem Art, Skowej 100, which features temporary exhibitions by notable artists; Edward Munch and Gerhard Richter have both been featured. (43 54 02 22; www.arken.dk. Open Su, Tu and Th-Sa 10am-5pm, W 10am-9pm. 55kr, students 35kr.) Take bus #128 (every hr. 14kr) or follow the signs from the station (45min. walk). From Copenhagen take S-train lines A or E. Ishej Strand Van-drerhjem , Ish0j Strandvej 13, is near the beach. (43 53 50 15. Breakfast 45kr. Sheets 40kr. Internet 2kr per min. Reception daily 8am-noon and 2-9:30pm. Dorms lOOkr; singles and doubles 370-400kr. Camping 62kr per person.)
MON. To see what Hans Christian Andersen once called the most beautiful spot in Denmark, head south of Copenhagen to the isle of Mon. The gorgeous Mans Klint (chalk cliffs) guard the northeastern section of the island. A scenic 3km hike from the cliffs, Liselund Slot sits in a beautiful park with peacocks and pastel farm houses. To get to either site, take bus #632 from Stege (30min. 3 per day, 12kr), or hike from the hostel (3km). To get to Mon, take the train from Copenhagen to Vordingborg (l’ahr. 97kr), then bus #62 or 64 to Stege (45min. 36kr). The Mens Turistbureau, Storeg. 2, is next to the bus stop in Stege. ( 55 86 04 00; www.moen-touristbureau.dk. Open June 15-Aug. M-F 9:30am-4:30pm, Sa 9am-6pm, Su llam-lpm; Sept.-June 14 M-F 9:30am-4:30pm, Sa 9am-noon.) Stay at the lakeside Youth Hostel (HI) , Langebjergvej 1. From mid July to Aug. take the infrequent bus #632 to the campsite stop, backtrack, then take the first road on the right. From Sept. to mid-July, take bus #52 to Magleby and walk 2.5km left down the road. ( 55 8120 30. Breakfast 45kr. Sheets 30-45kr. Reception daily 8am-noon and 4-8pm. Dorms lOOkr; singles and doubles 280kr.