At Santa Domingo de la Calzada, the church spire towers over the town. I pass the albergue where I first stayed in 2002 and peer in. A few boots line the rack, an indication of how many are staying. I am taking a half day’s rest in the hotel, a treat for me, time to unwind after 140 miles in just over five days. I lie on the bed in a blast of air conditioning and wait for the sweat to subside.
A few calories at the local restaurant with a glass or two of Rioja and I’m done for the day. Sleep comes easily.
A tiny dust tornado comes whirling towards me at an alarming speed. Sometimes they pass over the trail ahead but many make a beeline directly for me. I move to one side but it changes direction, I swerve to the other and it alters direction again. I bow my head and shut my eyes as it swirls straight through me like a meteorological ghost.
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I pass through Granon where I stayed in the Hospital de Peregrinos San Juan Bautista last time. A basic affair, just a mattress on the floor but the food was excellent. I’m not stopping, after only four miles I’m barely warmed up.
Redecilla del Camino forces me to stop for a coffee though – the last caffeine shot is wearing thin. A few pilgrims sit outside but the village is quiet, preparing for an imminent siesta. It’s turned cooler and I’m grateful. The sun still beats mercilessly but it’s tempered, making for ideal walking.
