Nuremberg (pop. 491,000) once hosted massive Nazi rallies; the Allies later chose it as the site of the post-war tribunals. Today, townspeople have forged a new image for their city as the Stadt der Menschenrechte (City of Human Rights). Locally, Nuremberg is known more for its Christmas market (Nov. 26-Dec. 24, 2004), toy fair, sausages, and gingerbread than its politics.

TRANSPORTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION. Trains go to: Berlin (6hr. every 2hr. 78-120); Frankfurt (3Vfchr. 2 per hr. 36-55); Munich (212hr. 2 per hr. 38); and Stuttgart (234hr. 6 per day, 28). DB Reisezentrum, located in the central hall of the station, sells tickets. (Open daily 6am-9:30pm.) The tourist office, Konigstr. 93, books rooms for free. Walk through the tunnel from the station to the Altstadt and take a right, (-a-233 61 31. Open M-Sa 9am-7pm.) Internet is available at Flat-s, on the second floor of the train station. (1 per 15min. Open M-Th 7am-llpm, F-Su 24hr.) Postal Code: 90402.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD. liJugendgastehaus (HI) , Burg2, isina castle above the city. From the tourist office, follow Konigstr. through Lorenzerpl. and over the bridge to the Hauptmarkt. Head toward the fountain on the left and go right on Burgstr. then head up the hill. f 230 93 60. Reception 7am-lam. Dorms 20.) When in town, Hitler would stay at Deutscher Hof , Frauentorgraben 29, only 400m from the station. (249 40. Breakfast included. Singles 39, doubles 52.) In the southwest corner of the Altstadt, ISZum Goldener Stern , Zir-kelschmiedgasse 26, is the oldest bratwurst kitchen in the world. (Six bratwurst 6. Open daily llam-lOpm.) Sushi Glas , Kornmarkt 7, next to the National Museum, attracts a chic yuppie crowd with delicious Japanese specialties. (Open M-W noon-llpm, Th-Sa noon-midnight, Su 6-llpm.) Edeka, Hauptmarkt 12, near Frauenkirche, sells groceries. (Open M-F 8:30am-7pm, Sa 8am-3pm.)

SM SIGHTS AND ENTERTAINMENT. Allied bombing left little of old Nuremberg for posterity, but its churches, castle, and other buildings have all been reconstructed. The walled-in Handwerkerhof near the station is more medieval than mall; head up Konigstr. for the real sights. Take a detour to the left for the pillared Strafie der Menschenrechte (“Avenue of Human Rights”) as well as the Germanis-ches Nationalmuseum, Kartauserg. 1, which chronicles German art from pre-history to the present. (Open Su, Tu and Th-Sa 10am-6pm, W 10am-9pm. 5, students 4. W 6-9pm free.) Across the river is the Hauptmarktplatz, site of the annual Christmas market. Hidden in the fence of the Schoner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain) in the Hauptmarkt is a seamless gold-colored ring; spinning it brings good luck. Walk uphill to the Rathaus; the Lochgefangnisse (dungeons) beneath contain medieval torture instruments. (Open Su and Tu-Sa 10am-4:30pm. Required tours every 30min. 2, students 1.) Atop the hill, the Kaiserburg (emperor’s fortress), Nuremberg’s symbol, offers the best vantage point of the city. (Open Apr.-Sept. daily 9am-6pm; Oct.-Mar. 10am-4pm. Required tours every 30min. 5, students 4.)

The ruins of Reichsparteitagsgeiande, site of the Nazi Party Congress rallies, remind visitors of Nuremberg’s darker history. On the far side of the lake is the Tribune, the marble platform where throngs gathered to hear Hitler. The “Fascination and Terror” exhibit, in the UKongresshalle, at the north end of the park, covers the rise of the Third Reich and the war crimes trials. (Open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm. 5, students 2.50.) To reach the park, take S2 to Dutzendteich, then take the middle of three exits, go down the stairs, and ton left. Walk past the lake on your left, turn left, then turn right to reach the Kongresshalle. On the other side of town, Nazi leaders faced Allied judges during the historic Nuremberg war crimes trials, held in room 600 of the Justizgebaude, Ftirtherstr. 110. (Take Ul to Barenschanze. Tours Sa-Su 1, 2, 3, and 4 pm. 2, students 1.)

Nuremberg’s nightspots are clustered around the Altstadt; the most popular are in the west, near the river. Cine Citta, Gewerbemuseumspl. 3, packs in 16 bars and cafes, 17 cinemas, an IMAX theater, and a disco. Take the U-Bahn to Wohrder Wiese. (Open M-Th and Su until 3am, F-Sa until 4am.) Frizz, WeiBgerberg. 37, swings to oldies and 80s rock. (Cover men 2. Women free. Open M and Th 8pm-2am, F-Sa 8pm-4am.)


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