Most tourists are drawn to Odense (OH-n-sa; pop. 185,000) by the legacy of Hans Christian Andersen and his fairytales. At Hans Christian Andersen’s Hus, Hans Jensens Str. 37-45, you can learn about the great author’s eccentricities, listen to his timeless children’s tales, and follow his rags-to-riches rise to fame. From the tourist office, walk right on Vesterg. then turn left on Torveg. and right on Hans Jensens Str. (65 51 46 20. Museum open mid-June to Aug. daily 9am-7pm; Sept. to mid-June Su and Tu-Sa 10am-4pm. English performances W-Th 3pm. 40kr.) A few

scraps of Andersen’s own ugly-duckling childhood are on display at H. C. Andersen’s Barndomshjem (Childhood Home), Munkemollestr. 3-5. ( 66 14 88 14. Open mid-June to Aug. daily 10am-4pm; Sept. to mid-June Su and Tu-Sa llam-3pm. lOkr.) At the Carl Nielsen Museum, Claus Bergs G. 11, listen to the works of the most famous Danish musician. (66 14 88 14. Open Su noon-4pm, Th-F 4-8pm. 15kr.) Walk down Vesterg. to the eclectic Brandts Klaedefabrik, Brandts Passage 37 and 43, a former cloth mill that houses the Museum of Photographic Art, the Graphic Arts Museum, and a contemporary art gallery. (66 13 78 97. All open July-Aug. daily 10am-5pm; Sept.-June Su and Tu-Sa 10am-5pm. 25-30kr, combination ticket 50kr.)

Trains arrive from Copenhagen (lV&hr. 197kr) and from Svendborg via Kvaemdrup (40min. 55kr). Buses depart from behind the train station. The tourist office, on R&dhuspl. books rooms for a 35kr fee and sells the Odense Adventure Pass, good for admission to museums, discounts on plays, and unlimited public transport (24hr. pass llOkr, 48hr. pass 150kr). From the train station, take Norreg. which becomes Asylg. and turn left at the end on Vesterg.; it’s on the right. ( 66 12 75 20; www.visitodense.com. Open June 15-Aug. M-F 9:30am-7pm, Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-4pm; Sept.-June 14 M-F 9:30am-4:30pm, Sa 10am-lpm.) The library in the station has free Internet, but you must reserve a slot in advance. (Open Apr.-Sept. M-Th 10am-7pm, F 10am-4pm, Sa 10am-2pm; Oct.-Mar. M-Th 10am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm.) Rent bikes next door to the station at Rolsted Cykler. (85kr per day, 300kr deposit. Open M-Th 10am-5:30pm, F 10am-7pm, Sa 10am-2pm.) The fabulous Danhostel Odense City (HI) O is attached to the station. (63 11 04 25. Kitchen available. Breakfast 45kr. Sheets 50kr. Laundry 40kr. Internet lOkr per 15min. Reception daily 8am-noon and 4-8pm. Call ahead. Dorms 115kr; singles 310-360kr; doubles 360-460kr; triples 420-460kr; quads 460kr. Nonmembers add 30kr.) To reach DCU Camping 0, Odensevej 102, take bus #21, 22, or 23 (dir.: H0jby) and ask the driver to drop you off. (66 11 47 02. Pool. Reception daily 7am-10pm. Open late Mar. to Sept. 58kr per person, 20kr per tent.) Get groceries at Aktiv Super, at the corner of Norreg. and Skulkenborgg. (Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa 9am-4pm.)

DAYTRIP FROM ODENSE: KVERNDRUP. Just 30min. south of Odense on the Svendborg rail line is Kvaemdrup, home to KEgeskov Slot, a stunning 16th-century castle that appears to float on the surrounding lake. Spend at least two hours in the magnificent Renaissance interior and grounds, which include a bamboo labyrinth and motorcycle museum. (Castle open July daily 10am-7pm, W until 11pm; May-June and Aug.-Sept. 10am-5pm. Grounds open July daily 10am-8pm; June and Aug. 10am-6pm; Apr.-May and Sept. 10am-5pm. Grounds, maze, and museums 75kr, with castle 130kr.) Take the Svendborg-bound train from Odense to Kvaemdrup; from the station, go right and continue to Bojdenvej, the main road. Wait for bus #920 (every hr.; 18kr, free with connecting train ticket), or turn right and walk 2km through wheat fields to the castle. The tourist office, Egeskovg. 1, is up the street from the castle. ( 62 27 10 46. Open July daily noon-8pm; June and Aug. noon-6pm; Sept. find Apr.-May noon-5pm.)

ODENSE MAP Photo Gallery

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