Munich may be known as the world’s beer capital, but much of that liquid gold flows south to Austria’s pubs and Biergdrten (beer gardens). These lager oases cluster in the city center by the Salzach River. The more boisterous stick to Rudolfskai between the Staatsbrucke and Mozartsteg. Elsewhere, especially along Chiemseeg. and around Anton-Neumayr-Pl. you can throw back a few drinks in a more reserved Beisl (pub). Refined bars with older patrons can be found along Steing. and Giselakai on the other side of the river. The gargantuan HiAugustiner Braustiibl-Miilln, Augustinerg. 4, has been serving home-brewed beer, Biergarten style, since 1621. (Open M-F 3-llpm, Sa- Su 2:30-1 lpm.) Settle into an armchair at the chic Vis a Vis, Rudolfskai 24. (Open daily 7:30pm-4am.) A relaxed and friendly Irish pub, Shamrock, Rudolfskai 11, has plenty of room and nightly live music. (Open Su noon- 2am, M-Th 3pm-2am, F-Sa noon-4am.) Zweistein, Gise lakai 9, is the center of Salzburg’s gay and lesbian scene. (Open M-W 6pm-4am, Th-Su 6pm-5am.)
DAYTRIPS FROM SALZBURG
HELLBRUNN. Just south of Salzburg lies the unfor gettable LustschloB Hellbrunn, a sprawling estate with a large palace, fish ponds, flower gardens, and the Wasserspiele, elaborate water-powered figurines and a booby-trapped table that spouts water on sur prised guests. Pictures of you getting sprayed are available at the end of the tour. (Open May-June and Sept. daily 9am-5:30pm; July-Aug. 9am-10pm; Apr. and Oct. 9am-4:30pm. Ticket for castle tour, gardens, and Wasserspiele ‚7.50, students ‚5.50.) Take bus #55 (dir.: Rif; 30 min.) to Hellbrun from the train sta tion, Mirabellpl. or Mozartsteg.
After you dry off, continue on bus #55 to St. Leon hard, where Charlemagne supposedly rests under Untersberg Peak, prepared to return and reign over Europe when duty calls. A cable car glides over the rocky cliffs to the summit, and from there hikes lead off into the distance. On top is a memorial cross and unbelievable mountain scenery. (Open July-Sept. daily 8:30am-5:30pm; Mar.-June and Oct. 8:30am- 5pm; Dec.-Feb. 9am-4pm. Round-trip ‚ 17.)