The oldest area of the city of Zagreb is Kaptol, the seat of the bishopric, founded in 1094. The old Roman settlement Andautonia was nearby and the site was on an important cross road. Gomji Grad, the upper town, was granted royal freedom of a city in 1241. Both parts of the city remained autonomous and were in fact rivals until their unification in 1850.
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Today Kaptol is the city center and Gomji Grad is called Gradec. In the 17th century the city enjoyed cultural and intellectual development with the founding of its university.
When we all caught up with each other, the chippers stopped and stowed away the gear while the brushers and painters finished up. If the bosun judged it right, which he always did, the last drop of paint would be applied as it was time to knock off.
The whole process was very satisfying. I became browner. Looking forward: steaming into a calm sea Maracaibo, in Venezuela, was disappointing.
I had been hoping to go ashore and see some exotic stretch of South America, full of Latins dancing and playing guitars, but Maracaibo was just a jetty sticking out from a refinery, which was on the edge of a jungle. We weren’t allowed past the end of the jetty. We were there for three days, picking up a full cargo of black oil products for Europe.
Everyone was nervous because a cadet on a Dutch ship had been shot the previous month by the army guards who always stayed onboard for security while any ship was in port. The cadet had apparently been pulling down the Venezuelan courtesy flag at sunset in a strong wind and he stood on it to stop it blowing away.