The Protestant Reformation began here in 1517 when Martin Luther nailed his 95 Theses to the door of the SchloBkirche; Wittenberg (pop. 48,000) has been fanatical about its native heretic ever since. All the major sights lie around Collegien-straBe. The CiLutherhalle, Collegienstr. 54, chronicles the Reformation through letters, texts, art, and artifacts. ( 420 30. Open Apr.-Oct. daily 9am-6pm; Nov.-Mar. Su and Tu-Sa 10am-5pm. €5, students €3.) The SchloBkirche allegedly holds Luther’s body and a copy of the 95 Theses. The tower offers a sumptuous view of the countryside. (Down SchloSstr. Church open M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su ll:30am-5pm. Free. Tower open M-F noon-4pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm. €1, students €0.50.)

Trains leave for Berlin (lV&hr. every 2hr. €17) and Leipzig (lhr. every 2hr. €9). From the station, follow the street curving right and continue until Collegienstr. the start of the pedestrian zone. The tourist office, Schlofipl. 2, provides maps, leads tours (€6), and books rooms. (49 86 10. Open Mar.-Oct. M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 10am-

3pm, Su llam-4pm; Nov.-Feb. M-F 10am-4pm, Sa 10am-2pm, Su llam-3pm.) The Jugendherberge (HI) is in the castle across from the tourist office. (40 32 55. Breakfast included. Sheets €3.50. Reception 3-10pm. Dorms €15, under-27 €12.) Cheap eats lie along the Collegienstr.-Schlofistr. strip. Postal Code: 06886.

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