Perhaps the best-preserved medieval town in Brittany, Dinan’s (pop. 10,000) cobblestone streets are lined with 15th-century houses inhabited by traditional artisans. On the ramparts, the 13th-century Porte du Guichet is the entrance to the Chateau de Dinan, also known as the Tour de la Duchesse Anne. Climb to the terrace to look over the town or inspect the galleries of the 15th-century Tour de Coetquen, which houses a collection of funerary ornaments. (Open June-Sept. daily 10am-6:30pm; Oct.-May reduced hours. ‚3.90, ages 12-18 ‚ 1.50.) On the other side of the ramparts from the chateau is the Jardin du Val Cocherel, which holds bird cages and a chessboard scaled for life-sized pieces. (Open daily 8am-7:30pm.) A long, picturesque walk down the steep r. de Petit Fort will lead you to the Maison d’Artiste de la Grande Vigne, 103 r. du Quai. This former home of painter Yvonne Jean-Haffen (1895-1993), is a work of art, with exhibitions of her work, murals adorning the walls, and a picturesque garden that would be any artist’s dream. ( 02 96 87 90 80. Open May 2-6pm, June-Sept. 2-6:30pm. ‚2.50, students ‚1.60.)
Trains run from the pi. du 11 Novembre 1918 to Paris (3hr. 8 per day, ‚50) and Rennes (lhr. 8 per day, ‚ 12). To get from the station to the tourist office, r. du Chateau, bear left across pi. 11 Novembre to r. Carnot, turn right on r. Thiers, turn left into the vielle ville, and bear right onto r. du Marchix, which becomes r. de la Fer-ronnerie; it will be on your right. (02 96 87 69 76; www.dinan-tourisme.com. Open mid-June to mid-Sept. M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 10am-12:30pm and 2:30-6pm; mid-Sept. to mid-June M-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 2-6pm.) Internet access is available at Arospace Cybercafe, 9 r. de la Chaux, off r. de l’Horloge. ( 02 96 87 04 87. Open Tu-Sa 10am-12:30pm, l:30-7pm. ‚1.50 per 15 min.) To reach the Auberge de Jeunesse (HI) O, in Vallee de la Fontaine-des-Eaux, turn left as you exit the station and cross the tracks, then turn right, and follow the tracks downhill for 1km before turning right again; it will be on your right. (02 96 39 10 83. Reception 8am-noon and 5-8pm. Curfew 11pm. Dorms ‚8.50.) Hotel du Theatre O, 2 r. Ste-Claire, is in the heart of the vieiUe viUe. (02 96 39 06 91. Singles ‚15; doubles ‚21.) Get groceries at Monoprix on r. du Marchix. (Open M-Sa 9am-7:30pm.) Rue de la Cordonnerie and place des Merciers have inexpensive brasseries. Postal Code: 22100.