Graz’s under-touristed Altstadt has an unhurried Mediterranean feel, picturesque red-tiled roofs, and Baroque domes. The second largest of Austria’s cities, Graz (pop. 226,244) offers a sweaty, energetic nightlife thanks to the 45,000 students at Karl-Franzens-Universitat.

TRANSPORTATION. From the Hauptbahnhof, trains run to: Innsbruck (6hr. 7 per day, ‚44); Munich (6V6hr. 4 per day, ‚63); Salzburg (41Shr. ‚37); Vienna Siid- bahnhof (2lM\r. 16 per day, ‚25); and Zurich (10hr. 10pm, ‚74).

PRACTICAL INFORMATION. From the train station, go down Annenstr. and cross the main bridge to reach Hauptplatz, the center of town. Five minutes away is Jakominiplatz, the hub of the public transportation system. Herrengasse, a pedestrian street lined with cafes and boutiques, connects the two squares. The University is tucked away past the Stadtpark, in the northeast part of Graz. The tourist office, Herreng. 16, has free city maps and a walking guide of the city. The staff offers English-language tours of the Altstadt (2hr.; Apr.-Oct. Su, Tu-W, and F- Sa 2:30pm; ‚7.50) and makes room reservations for free. (807 50. Open June- Sept. M-F 9am-7pm, Sa 9am-6pm, Su 10am-4pm; Oct.-May M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am- 3pm, Su 10am-3pm.) Postal Code: A-8010.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD. In Graz, most hotels, guesthouses, and pensions are pricey and far from the city center. Luckily, the web of local transpor tation provides a reliable and easy commute to and from the outlying neighbor-hoods. To reach Jugendgastehaus Graz (HI) , Idlhofg. 74, from the station, cross the street, head right on Eggenberger Gurtel, turn left on Josef-Huber-G. then take the first right; the hostel is through the parking lot on your right. Buses #31 and 32 run here from Jakominipl. (71 48 76. All rooms with bath. Breakfast included. Laundry ‚3. Internet ‚1.50 per 20min. Reception daily 7am-10pm. Dorms ‚19.50; singles ‚26.50; doubles ‚42.50. Discount for longer stays. MCV.) Hotel Strasser , Eggenberger Gurtel 11, is 5min. from the train station. Exit, cross the street, and head right on Eggenberger Gurtel. (71 39 77. Breakfast included. Singles ‚29, with shower ‚36; doubles ‚4554; triples with shower ‚66. AmExDCMCV.)


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