DO&CO, I, Stephanspl. 12, 7th fl. (535 39 69). Set above the Stephansdom, this modern gourmet restaurant offers both traditional Austrian dishes and other interna tional specialties like Thai noodles and Uruguay beef (‚19-23.50). Reservations recom mended. Open daily noon-3pm and 6pm-midnight. Ma Creperie, I, Grunangerg. 10. Off Singerstr. near Stephanspl. The sensual decor of this restaurant complements the sumptuous crepes, both sweet and savory (‚3-18). Try the Himbeer (raspberry) soda (‚2), Open daily llam-midnight. AmExMCV.

El Wrenkh, I, Bauernmarkt 10. The delicious and creative cuisine at this strictly vegetarian restaurant ranges from Japanese springrolls to spinach gnocchi (‚4-18) and fresh fruit juices to original mixed drinks (‚3-8). Open daily ll:30am-llpm. AmExMCV.

Trzesniewski, I, Dorotheerg. 1, 3 blocks down the Graben from Stephansdom. This famous stand-up establishment has been serving petite open-faced sandwiches for over

80 years. A filling lunch (6 sandwiches and a mini-beer) costs about ‚5. This was Kafka’s favorite place to eat. Open M-F 8:30am-7:30pm, Sa 9am-5pm.

Smutny, I, Elisabethstr. 8. Off Karlspl. A delicious traditional Austrian restaurant offering schnitzel and goulash. Entrees ‚5-8. 0

A Tavola, I. Weihburgg. 3. Ul: Stephansplatz. Walk down Hartnerstr. and make a left onto Weihburgg. Enjoy homemade pasta dishes with beef, seafood, or pheasant (‚8- 16) in the romantic, candlelit vaults of the city tavern. Italian wines by the glass (‚3-5). Open M-Sa noon-2:30pm and 6pm-midnight. AmExMCV.

Maschu Maschu, I, Rabensteig 8. In Bermuda Dreieck. Filling and super-cheap falafel and schwarma (‚3 each). Open M-W ll:30am-midnight, Th-Sa ll:30am-3am. Levante, I, Wallnerstr. 2. Walk down Graben away from Stephansdom, turn left on Kohl- markt and right onto Wallnerstr. Greek-Turkish franchise featuring street-side dining and some vegetarian dishes. Entrees ‚7-12. Open daily l-ll:30pm.

Margaritaville, I, Bartensteing. 3. Take U2: Lerchenfelderstr. exit onto Museumstr. and cut across the triangular green to Bartensteing. Authentic Tex-Mex among Spanish- speakers. Entrees ‚8-20. Open M-F and Su 4pm-midnight, Sa 1 lam-midnight.

Cafe MAK, I, Stubenring 3-5, inside the Museum fur Angewandte Kunst. Tram #1 to Stubenring. Funky Bauhaus furniture and international cuisine. Techno parties on Sa nights in July. Entrees ‚8-15. Open Su and Tu-Sa 10am-2am. MCV.

Inigo, I, Backerstr. 18. Founded by a Jesuit priest as part of a social reintegration pro gram, Inigo provides employment and training for people who are long-term unem ployed. International and vegetarian options (‚5-10) and a salad bar (‚3-7). Open July-Aug. M-F 8:30am-ll:30pm; Sept.-June daily 8:30am-l 1:30pm. AmExMCV. Zimolo, I, Ballg. 5. Near Stephanspl. off Weihburgg. Good Italian food; sexy ambience. Entrees ‚7-19. Open M-Sa noon-2:30pm and 6-11pm. AmExMCV.

OH Pot, OH Pot, IX, Wahringerstr. 22. U2: Schottentor. This adorable eatery serves filling pots, stew-like veggie or meat concoctions (‚7-10). Fusion fare from Chilean to Ethi-

Centimeter, IX, Liechtensteinstr. 42. Tram D to Bauernfeldpl. This chain offers huge por tions of greasy Austrian fare and an unbelievable selection of beers. You pay by the cen timeter. Open M-F 10am-2am, Sa llam-2am, Su 1 lam-midnight. AmExMCV. Elsafier Bistro, IX, Wahringerstr. 32. U2: Schottentor. In the palace that houses the French Cultural Institute walk into the garden and follow your nose to an extravagant meal (‚14) and exquisite French wines. Open M-F llam-3pm and 6:30-llpm. O Vegetasia, III, Ungarg. 57. Take the 0 tram to Neulingg. A vegetarian nirvana, this cozy Taiwanese restaurant offers seitan and many forms of soy. Lunch buffet M-Sa ‚6.50. Open daily ll:30am-3pm and 5:30-ll:30pm. Closed Tu evenings. AmExMCV. Cafe Nil, VII, Siebensterng. 39. Enjoy vegetarian dishes (‚6-12) with tortured writers at this Middle Eastern haunt. Breakfast until 3pm. Open daily lOam-midnight.

Blue Box, VII, Richterg. 8. U3: Neubaug. Blue Box is a restaurant by day and a club by night. Dishes are fresh and original (‚3.50-7), and DJs spin the latest trance and trip- hop. Open M 6pm-2am, Tu-Su 10am-2am.

Cafe Willendorf, VI, Linke Wienzeile 102. Take U4 to Pilgramg. and look for the pink building which also houses the Rosa Lila Villa, the center of gay life in Vienna. Artsy fare (‚7-13), relaxed atmosphere. Open M-Th 6pm-lam, F-Sa 6pm-2pm.

University Mensa, IX, Universitatsstr. 7, on the 7th fl. of the university building, between U2 stops Rathaus and Schottentor. Ride the old-fashioned Pater Aoster ele vator (no doors and never stops, so jump in and out) to the 6th fl. and take the stairs up. Not much atmosphere, but the food is cheap. Typical cafeteria meals ‚4. Open Sept.-June M-F llam-2pm, but snack bar open 8am-3pm. O Fischerbrau, XIX, Billrothstr. 17. U6 to NuBdorfer Str. exit on Wahringer Gurtel, continue until Doblinger Hauptpl. take a left, and left again onto Billrothstr. Try the home-brewed beer (‚2.50-5), veal sausage (‚4.60), or chicken salad (‚6.50). Blues brunch Sa noon-3pm. Open M-F 4pm-lam, Sa-Su llam-lam. Jazz brunch Su llam-3pm.

Cafe Riidigerhof, V, Hamburgerstr. 20. U4: Kettenbriickeng. off Rechte Wienzeile. Designed by students of Otto Wagner, this Jugendstil cafe is adorned with floral pat terns and leather couches (a gift from King Hussein to the owner). Traditional meat and fish dishes (‚5-7). Delicious iced coffee ‚3.50. Open daily 10am-2am. MCV.

Cafe Drechsler, VI, Linke Wienzeile 22. U4: Kettenbriickeng. Or, from Karlspl. head down Operng. and continue on Linke Wienzeile. This is the place to be the morning after. Early birds and night owls roost over pungent cups of Mokka. Huge portions, hearty food (‚4.70-8.50). Open M-F 3am-8pm, Sa 3am-6pm.

Zum Mogulhof, VII, Burgg. 12. Ample portions of delicious Indian food. Vegetarian and meat dishes ‚8-12. Open daily ll:30am-2:30pm and 6-11:30pm. AmExMCV. Amerlingbeisl, VII, Stiftg. 8. U3: Neubaug. Rain or snow, the retractible hydraulic roof lets you eat in the courtyard. Entrees ‚6-8. Open daily 9am-2am.

Stomach, IX, Seeg. 26. Take tram D to Seeg. Sophisticated Austrian cooking with a Styr- ian kick. 20-something crowd. Entrees ‚14. Open Su lOam-lOpm, W-Sa 4pm-mid- night. Reservations recommended. MCV. 0


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