Liibeck (pop. 213,000) is easily Schleswig-Holstein’s most beautiful city you’d never guess that most of it was razed in WWII. In its heyday it was the capital of the Hanseatic league, controlling trade across Northern Europe. Although no longer a center of political and commercial influence, Liibeck still chums out delicious marzipan and red-blond Duckstein beer.

TRANSPORTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION. Trains run to Berlin (3!hr. 1 per hr. ‚35) and Hamburg (45min. 2 per hr. ‚9). Ryanair flies cheaply from London to Liibeck (LBC). A privately owned, expensive tourist office is in the train station. The tourist office in the Altstadt, at Breite Str. 62, is better. (& 122 54 20. Open M-F 9:30am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-3pm.) Postal Code: 23552.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD. To reach URucksack Hotel O, Kanal-str. 70, walk past the Holstentor from the station, turn left on An der Unter-trave and right on Beckergrube; the hostel is on the corner of Kanalstr. ( 70 68 92. Breakfast ‚3. Sheets ‚3. Reception daily lOam-lpm and 4-9pm. Dorms ‚13; doubles with bath ‚40; quads ‚60, with bath ‚68.) The Baltic Hotel , Hansestr. 11, is across the street from the station. (855 75. Breakfast included. Reception daily 7am-10pm. Singles ‚35-45; doubles ‚58-65; triples from ‚80.) Liibeck’s specialty is marzipan, a delectable candy made from almonds. Stop by the famous confectionery Qil.G. Niederegger Marzipan Cafe , Breitestr. 89, for marzipan in the shape of pigs, jellyfish, and even the town gate. (Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa 9am-6pm, Su 10am-4pm.) Tipasa , Schlumach-erstr. 12, serves pizza, pasta, and vegetarian dishes, and runs a Biergarten in back. (Open M-Th and Su noon-lam, F-Sa noon-2am.)

SIGHTS. Between the station and the Altstadt stands the massive Holstentor, one of Liibeck’s four 15th-century gates and the

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