NANCY FRANCE
Nancy (pop. 100,000) has always been passionate about beauty: the town that spawned the art-nouveau “Nancy school” is today the artistic and intellectual heart of modem Lorraine. The elaborate BPIace Stanislas houses three neoclassical pavilions, with son-et-lumiere (sound and light) spectacles held nightly at 10pm in July and August. The collection in the Musee des Beaux-Arts, 3 pi. Stanislas, spans from the 14th century to today. ( 03 83 85 30 72. Open Su-M and W-Sa 10am-6pm. 4.80, students 2.30. W and 1st Su of the month students free.) Portals of pink roses lead into the aromatic Roseraie, in the relaxing Parc de la Pepiniere, just north of pi. de la Carriere. (Open May-Sept. 6:30am-ll:30pm; Oct.-Apr. reduced hours. Free.) Nancy has a vibrant arts and nightlife scene; check www.nancybynight.com for info on everything from theater to concerts to clubs. Rue Stanislas and Grand Rue are great places to grab a drink.
Trains (03 83 22 12 46) depart from the station at pi. Thiers for Paris (3hr.14 per day, 36) and Strasbourg (lhr. 17 per day, 19). Follow r. Raymond Poincare away from the station, through a stone archway, and continue straight to pi. Stanislas and the tourist office. (03 83 35 22 41; www.ot-nancy.fr. Open Apr.-Sept. M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 10am-5pm; Oct.-Mar. M-Sa 9am-6pm, Su lOam-lpm.) Access the Internet at E-cafe, r. des Quatre Eglises. (03 83 35 47 34. 5.40 per hr. Open M-Sa 9am-9pm, Su 2-8pm.) Centre d’Accueil de Remicourt (HI) O, 149 r. de Vandoeuvre, is in Villiers-les-Nancy, 4km away. From the station, take bus #122 to St-Fiacre (dir.: Villiers Clairlieu; 2 per hr.; confirm route with the driver); head downhill from the stop, turn right on r. de daily 8am-10pm; Feb.-June and Sept.-Nov. 8am-8pm. Open Feb.-Nov. Electricity 2.40. 3 per person, 1.80 per child; 3.30 per site.) Monoprix supermarket is on pl. Unterlinden. (Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 8am-8pm.) Grand Rue has a multitude of brasseries and other tasty options. Postal Code: 68000.
Nancy (pop. 100,000) has always been passionate about beauty: the town that spawned the art-nouveau “Nancy school” is today the artistic and intellectual heart of modern Lorraine. The elaborate HPIace Stanislas houses three neoclassical pavilions, with son-et-lumiere (sound and light) spectacles held nightly at 10pm in July and August. The collection in the Musee des Beaux-Arts, 3 pi. Stanislas, spans from the 14th century to today. (03 83 85 30 72. Open Su-M and W-Sa 10am-6pm. 4.80, students 2.30. W and 1st Su of the month students free.) Portals of pink roses lead into the aromatic Roseraie, in the relaxing Parc de la Pepiniere, just north of pi. de la Carriere. (Open May-Sept. 6:30am-ll:30pm; Oct.-Apr. reduced hours. Free.) Nancy has a vibrant arts and nightlife scene; check www.nancybynight.com for info on everything from theater to concerts to clubs. Rue Stanislas and Grand Rue are great places to grab a drink.
Trains (03 83 22 12 46) depart from the station at pi. Thiers for Paris (3hr.14 per day, 36) and Strasbourg (lhr. 17 per day, 19). Follow r. Raymond Poincare away from the station, through a stone archway, and continue straight to pi. Stanislas and the tourist office. (03 83 35 22 41; www.ot-nancy.fr. Open Apr.-Sept. M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 10am-5pm; Oct.-Mar. M-Sa 9am-6pm, Su lOam-lpm.) Access the Internet at E-cafe, r. des Quatre Eglises. (03 83 35 47 34. 5.40 per hr. Open M-Sa 9am-9pm, Su 2-8pm.) Centre d’Accueil de Remicourt (HI) O, 149 r. de Vandoeuvre, is in Villiers-les-Nancy, 4km away. From the station, take bus #122 to St-Fiacre (dir.: Villiers Clairlieu; 2 per hr.; confirm route with the driver); head downhill from the stop, turn right on r. de la Grange des Moines, which turns into r. de Vandoeuvre. Signs point to Chateau de Remicourt. (03 83 27 73 67. Reception 9am-9pm. Dorms 13; doubles 29. MCA.) Hotel Flore , 8 r. Raymond Poincare, near the train station, is bright and homey. (03 83 37 63 28. Reception 7:30am-2am. Singles 26-32; doubles 37-40; triples 43. AmExMCA.) Restaurants line rue des Marechaux, place Lafayette, and place St-Epvre. A SHOPI market sits at 26 r. St-Georges. (Open M-Sa 9am-8pm. MCA.) Postal Code: 54000.
CHAMPAGNE AND THE NORTH
Legend has it that at the moment he discovered Champagne, Dom Perignon exclaimed, “Come quickly, I am drinking the stars!” Since then everyone from Napoleon to John Maynard Keynes has proclaimed its virtues. The term “champagne” is fiercely guarded; the name can only be applied to wines made from regional grapes and produced according to a rigorous, time-honored method. As you head further north to the ferry ports, don’t overlook the intriguing Flemish culture of Arras and the world-class art collections of Lille.
