Nice France Metro Map
Restaurants in Nice range from four-star establishments to outdoor terraces to tiny holes-in-the-wall. Patisseries and bakeries sell inexpensive local specialties flavored with North African spices, herbs, or olives. Try the round, crusty pan bagnat, a loaf of bread garnished with tuna, sardines, vegetables, and olive oil; pissaladiere pizza topped with onions, anchovies, and olives; socca, thin, olive oil-flavored chickpea bread, served hot with pepper; or bouillabaisse, a hearty stew of mussels, potatoes, and fish. The famous salade nigoise combines tuna, potatoes, tomatoes, and a spicy mustard dressing.
Cafes and food stands along the beach are expensive. The fruit, fish, and flower market at cours Saleya is a good place to pick up fresh olives, cheeses, and melons (Tu-Su 6am-l:30pm). A fruit and vegetable market is on av. Mache de la Liberation (Tu-Su 6am-12:30pm). Expensive gourmet establishments line r. Massena, which offer nothing cheaper than a ‚9 pizza. Av. Jean-Medecin features reasonable brasseries and panini vendors, and gems hide amid the tourist traps on Vieux Nice.
18 La Merenda, 4 r. de la Terrasse. Those lucky enough to get a table can savor the work of a culinary master who left one of the most renowned restaurants in Nice to open this affordable 12-table gem which only stocks enough fresh food to last the day. Nothing about the menu is constant except its exotic flair, evidenced by fried zucchini flowers, stockfish, and veal head. Reserve in the morning, in person, for dinner. Two seatings at 7 and 9pm. Cash only. Plats ‚10-15. Open M-F noon-l:30pm and 7-9:30pm.
IS Lou Pilha Leva, 13 r. du Collet (04 93 13 99 08) in Vieux Nice. Tourists and locals pack the outdoor wooden benches of this favorite, chowing down on inexpensive and tasty local food. Pizza slice ‚3, moules (mussels) ‚5. Open daily 8am-llpm. O H Le Restaurant d’Angleterre, 25 r. d’Angleterre (04 93 88 64 49), near the train station. This local favorite serves delicious French specialties in a pleasant, intimate setting. The menu sage includes bread, large salad, main course, side dish, dessert, and an after-dinner cordial (‚11.50). Open Tu-Sa ll:30am-l:45pm and 6:45-10pm.
People, 12 r. Pastorelli (04 93 85 08 43). Friendly ownership, hearty portions of regional dishes like the delicious foie gras, and an excellent wine selection make People well worth the short walk from Vieux Nice. Plats ‚12-17. Open M noon-2:30pm, Tu-Th noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm, F-Sa 5pm-midnight. G
Acchiardo, 38 r. Droite ( 04 93 85 51 16), in Vieux Nice. Simple but appetizing Italian and French dishes served in a charming country setting with gingham, hanging corn husks, grape vines, and bronze pans. Pastas (‚6) and classic French meats (house scallop specialty ‚11.50) are popular with a local clientele loyal to the family-run business. Open M-F noon-l:30pm and 7-10pm.
Speakeasy, 7 r. Lamartine (04 93 85 59 50). Alas, there’s no illicit liquor here, but there are delectable vegan lunch options, prepared by an American chefanimal-rights activist. Testimonials of famous vegetarians from Gandhi to Martina Navratilova surround the entrance. 2-course meal ‚11-12. Open M-Sa noon-2:15pm.
J.Multari, 58bis av. Jean-Medecin (04 93 92 01 99). This graceful salon de the, bakery, and sandwich shop serves excellent, reasonably priced fare. Try a goat cheese, chicken, or ham sandwich on fresh baguette (‚3.10), salad (‚3), pizza (‚1.50), crepe (‚5), or mouth-watering pastry (‚1-2). Open M-Sa 6am-8:30pm.
Nocy-Be, 4-6 r. Jules Gilly (04 93 85 52 25). Chill out at this mellow Asian tearoom, adorned with low-hanging lamps, comfortable sofas, and inviting floor cushions. Sip one of 45 teas (‚2.30-3.80) or relax with a narguilt (water pipe) with one of 14 fruit fragrances (‚7.60). Open daily July-Sept. 5pm-12:30am; Oct.-June 4pm-12:30am.
KF Bis, 8 r. Deify (04 93 80 02 22), next to the Musee d’Art Moderne. Otherwise known as the fashion lounge cafe, KF Bis fosters a feeling of cool sophistication. Open June-Aug. Tu-F ll:30am-2pm and 7:30-ll:30pm, Sa-Su 5:30-1 lpm; Sept.-May Tu-Su ll:30am-3pm and 5:30-ll:30pm. AmExV.