The Kamentia Vrata, the east stone gateway to the upper town, the Lotrscak Tower, the Cathedral of Mary's Assumption and Saint Stephen with its 100 meter high tower. The Gothic Church of Saint Mark, which has on its roof the largest city coat of arms. The archbishops residence, the largest Baroque palace in Croatia, the Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters, the largest portrait collection in Yugoslavia. More than 40 museums and galleries and a world famous opera house which reinforces Zagreb's reputation as a cultural center.
The laden ship had a slow roll and the low freeboard meant that the gunnels dipped into the water at every other roll, bringing a cascade of ocean rushing along the deck.
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We learned to run like monkeys between the rolls, whipping off the ullage caps while the ship was rolling away from the water, dropping the thermometer on a string down into the oil, tying it off, cramming the cap back on, then leaping up on the pipework to avoid the torrent of water as the ship lurched back again. If we were too slow we were drenched and washed along, banged and bruised against the metalwork, dragged dangerously near the scuppers by the pull of the retreating water. When the water ran off the deck, we would jump down, knock off the ullage cap, pull up the thermometer, read it, cap back, run for the pipes.
It made us very quick, very alert and very, very aware of the power and unpredictability of the sea. We cheered at each other whenever there was a near miss. Reading temperatures on a deep-laden tanker in the choppy Atlantic was a blast of fun for every young man who ever tried it; I never knew anyone who didn’t find it exciting.
It held a blend of challenge, speed, timing, danger and a huge burn of exhilaration as you made the jump to safety each time. It was fabulous. We had Christmas near the Western Approaches to the English Channel.