The rooms on Kasern Berg are officially outside Salzburg, which means the tourist office can’t recommend them, but the personable hosts and bargain prices make these Privatzimmer (rooms in a family home) a terrific housing option. Expect rolling fields and a reliance on public transportation. All northbound trains run to Kasem Berg (4min.; every 30min. 6:15am-ll:15pm; ‚1.60; Eurail valid). Get off at Salzburg-Maria Plain and take the only road uphill. Most don’t accept credit cards.

Haus Lindner, Panoramaweg 5 (45 66 81). Offers homey rooms, some with mountain views. Breakfast included. Call for pickup from the station. ‚16 per person.

Haus Moser, Turnerbiihel (45 66 76). Climb up the steep hidden stairs on the right side of Kasern Berg road across from German Kapeller. A charming couple offers com fortable rooms in their cozy, dark-timbered home. Breakfast and laundry included. ‚15 per person. Cheaper after 1st night.

Haus Seigmann, Kasern Bergstr. 66 (45 00 01). Snug comforters and balconies over looking the valley. Afternoon tea served on the hillside patios. About ‚15 per person (negotiable). Reservations recommended in the summer. MCV.

Countless beer gardens and pastry-shop patios make Salzburg a great place for outdoor dining. Local specialties include Salzburger Nockerl (egg whites, sugar, and raspberry filling baked into three mounds that represent the three hills of Salzburg), Knoblauchsuppe (a rich cream soup loaded with croutons and garlic), and the world-famous Mozartkugeln (hazelnuts coated in marzipan, nougat, and chocolate). Supermarkets cluster on the Mirabellpl. side of the river, and open-air markets are held on Universitatpl. (Open M-F 6am-7pm, Sa 6am-lpm.)

13 Zweltler’s, Kaig. 3. Near the tourist office on Mozartpl. Try the tasty Spinatnockerl (spin ach baked into a pan with cheese and parsley, ‚6.50) or the classic Wienerschnitiel (‚9.70). For added excitement local customers yell suggestions to the chef on second floor. Open daily 6pm-lam, during the Festspiele also llam-2pm.

St. Peter’s Stiftskeller, St.-Peter-Bezirk 14. Tucked away behind the fortress at the foot of the cliffs is the oldest restaurant in Central Europe, established in 803. Most dishes are ‚18-20, but a few run cheaper. Open M-F llam-midnight, during the Festspiele until lam. MCV. O


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