5 Commercial Circle, Dedham; (617) 326-1955 You may not be fooled as to what decade you’re actually in here, but it’s not for lack of effort. Walk in the door, and the music of the Platters wafts your way. A wooden phone booth catches your eye, as does an old style Coca-Cola cooler.
As you head for a booth, Life magazine covers, photos of Elvis and Marilyn, and ads for Vitalis hair tonic all vie for your attention. The jukebox is stoked with Fabian, Sinatra, and a variety of old-time showtunes and at three songs for a quarter, you won’t even need the Fonz to slap it for you. A wooden console TV, surely one of few remaining in working order, shows grainy black and white video.
Fortunately, the food more than measures up to the surroundings. Order a chocolate frappe ($2.49) and get nearly two tall glasses’ worth and very tasty. The breakfast special, served all day, offers plenty of food for any appetite: Good coffee, two eggs, thick slabs of French toast, bacon, sausage, and homefries all for $5.25.
A deluxe burger, thick and artery-clogging, comes with all the trappings (including bacon), served with terrific thin French fries and cole slaw for $4.90. A variety of sandwiches can be had for $3.50 or less; four different salad plates come in under $5. And don’t forget the special desserts of the day, like an orange cream cake, all $2.50 a slice. The diner is open from 7 a.m. to 3 rm. only, seven days a week. Watch carefully for the signs while driving north along Route 1 (just inside of Route 128), or you’ll miss it.