With a central waterway crisscrossed by pedestrian footbridges decorated with colorful flowers, Quimper (pop. 63,000) has the feel of a mini-Paris. The magnificent dual spires of the Cathedrale St-Corentin, built between the 13th and 15th centuries, mark the entrance to the old quarter from quai St-Corentin. (Open M-Sa 8:30am-noon and l:30-6:30pm, Su 8:30am-noon, except during mass, and 2-6:30pm.) The Musee Departemental Breton, 1 r. du Roi Gradlon, through the cathedral garden, offers exhibits on local history, archaeology, and ethnography. (Open June-Sept. daily 9am-6pm; Oct.-May Su 2-5pm, Tu-Sa 9am-noon and 2-5pm. ‚4, students ‚2.50.) At night, head to one of the several cafes near the cathedral, or to the Irish pub liMolly Malone’s, pi. St-Mathieu, on r. Falkirk. ( 02 98 53 40 42. Beamish stout ‚3.10, pint ‚5.40. Open daily llam-lam.)

Trains go to Brest (l’ahr. 4 per day, ‚14) and Rennes (2!ihr. 10 per day, ‚28). From the train station, go right onto av. de la Gare and follow the river Odet, keeping it on your right; it will become bd. Dupleix and lead to pi. de la Resistance. The tourist office will be on your left. (02 98 53 04 05; www.quimper-tourisme.com. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su lOam-lpm and 3-5:45pm; Sept.-June reduced hours.) Access the Internet at CyberCopy, 3 bd. Amiral Kerguelen (s02 98 64 33 99. ‚4.50 per hr. Open M l-7pm, Tu-F 9am-7pm, Sa 9am-3pm.) To reach the Centre Hebergement de Quimper (HI) , 6 av. des Oiseaux, take bus #1 from pi. de la Resistance (dir: Kermoysan) to Chaptal (last bus 7:30pm). The hostel will be 50m up the street on your left. (02 98 64 97 97; quimper@fuaj.org. Breakfast ‚3.25. Sheets ‚3. Dorms ‚8.40. HI members only.) Hotel Le Derby , 13 av. de la Gare, facing the train station, has well-decorated rooms, all with bath. (02 98 52 06 91; fax 02 98 53 39 04. Breakfast ‚5.40. Extra bed ‚4. Singles ‚28; doubles ‚38; Oct.-Apr. ‚3 discount.) The lively Les Hailes (covered markets), off r. Kereon on r. St-Frangois, always has shops with bargains on produce, seafood, meats, and cheeses. (Open M-Sa 7am-8pm, Su 9am-lpm.) Postal Code 29200.

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