With a central waterway crisscrossed by pedestrian footbridges decorated with colorful flowers, Quimper (pop. 63,000) has the feel of a mini-Paris. The magnificent dual spires of the Cathedrale St-Corentin, built between the 13th and 15th centuries, mark the entrance to the old quarter from quai St-Corentin. (Open M-Sa 8:30am-noon and l:30-6:30pm, Su 8:30am-noon, except during mass, and 2-6:30pm.) The Musee Departemental Breton, 1 r. du Roi Gradlon, through the cathedral garden, offers exhibits on local history, archaeology, and ethnography. (Open June-Sept. daily 9am-6pm; Oct.-May Su 2-5pm, Tu-Sa 9am-noon and 2-5pm. €4, students €2.50.) At night, head to one of the several cafes near the cathedral, or to the Irish pub liMolly Malone’s, pi. St-Mathieu, on r. Falkirk. ( 02 98 53 40 42. Beamish stout €3.10, pint €5.40. Open daily llam-lam.)

Trains go to Brest (l’ahr. 4 per day, €14) and Rennes (2!ihr. 10 per day, €28). From the train station, go right onto av. de la Gare and follow the river Odet, keeping it on your right; it will become bd. Dupleix and lead to pi. de la Resistance. The tourist office will be on your left. (02 98 53 04 05; www.quimper-tourisme.com. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su lOam-lpm and 3-5:45pm; Sept.-June reduced hours.) Access the Internet at CyberCopy, 3 bd. Amiral Kerguelen (s02 98 64 33 99. €4.50 per hr. Open M l-7pm, Tu-F 9am-7pm, Sa 9am-3pm.) To reach the Centre Hebergement de Quimper (HI) , 6 av. des Oiseaux, take bus #1 from pi. de la Resistance (dir: Kermoysan) to Chaptal (last bus 7:30pm). The hostel will be 50m up the street on your left. (02 98 64 97 97; quimper@fuaj.org. Breakfast €3.25. Sheets €3. Dorms €8.40. HI members only.) Hotel Le Derby , 13 av. de la Gare, facing the train station, has well-decorated rooms, all with bath. (02 98 52 06 91; fax 02 98 53 39 04. Breakfast €5.40. Extra bed €4. Singles €28; doubles €38; Oct.-Apr. €3 discount.) The lively Les Hailes (covered markets), off r. Kereon on r. St-Frangois, always has shops with bargains on produce, seafood, meats, and cheeses. (Open M-Sa 7am-8pm, Su 9am-lpm.) Postal Code 29200.

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